Beautiful people in crochet land……..

I am so very excited to bring you Atlanticus, The Prelude.
This will contain all special stitches, abbreviations, yarn colours, hints, tips and everything that will be used for the duration of the CAL. Please take the time to read through this carefully and keep it somewhere that you can refer back to when the CAL commences. The creation of this blanket has been such an amazing journey for me and I am so excited for all of you to begin on your own magical journey.

“Atlanticus and Lilliana
They were young,
They were wild
And so indelibly free.
The sand was earth’s bosom
And her milk the sea.
They danced to music others
could not hear.
They dined on their triumphs
And relinquished their fear.
The salt left a memory
She could taste on his skin,
While his tongue etched a story
They were bound to begin.
For their love was boundless,
Without judgement or sin;
From now on there was no battle
They could not win.”

Sending you all love, light and dreams of the beach xxx

Before you start:

At the bottom of this page you will find links relating to the CAL  – if you would like to download the PDF version of this Prelude –

English – Prelude-English-PDF (9745 downloads)  

Afrikaans –  Prelude-Afrikaans-PDF (230 downloads)  

Hebrew –  Prelude-Hebrew-PDF (291 downloads)  

Swedish –  Prelude-Swedish-PDF (334 downloads)  

Spanish –  Prelude-Spanish-PDF (214 downloads)  

German –  Prelude-German-PDF (420 downloads)  

Dutch –  Prelude-Dutch-PDF (651 downloads)  

Danish –  Prelude-Danish (307 downloads)  

French –  Prelude-French (87 downloads)  

If you have any questions – please use the Q&A on this blog (must be registered on our site to use this feature)

My Atlanticus measures:

145cm x 145 cm (including the border)

Materials:

Double knit (DK) cotton or acrylic yarn – I used Nurturing Fibres Eco cotton
50 grams – 125m
4mm crochet hook
Needle for sewing in ends

Yarn colours and quantities:

The tutorials for this pattern are done in Colourway 1
Colours will be listed on each Round as Colour A, B, C, etc.

(Please note hand dyed yarn colours can differ dramatically by batch)

Colourway 1:

Vanilla

Cornflower

Mint

Ocean

Aventurine

Aqua

Watershed

Denim

A – Vanilla – Approx. 100g/250m
B – Watershed – Approx. 150g/375m
C – Cornflower – Approx. 300g/750m
D – Ocean – Approx. 200g/500m
E – Denim – Approx. 200g/500m
F – Aqua – Approx. 250g/625m
G – Aventurine – Approx. 250g/625m
H – Mint – Approx. 150g/375m

Colourway 2:

Vanilla

Ocean

Anvil

Bessie

Cornflower

Willow

Charcoal

Pear

A – Vanilla – Approx. 100g/250m
B – Anvil – Approx. 150g/375m
C – Cornflower – Approx. 300g/750m
D – Charcoal – Approx. 200g/500m
E – Ocean – Approx. 200g/500m
F – Bessie – Approx. 250g/625m
G – Willow – Approx. 250g/625m
H – Pear– Approx. 150g/375m

Please note, I crochet quite tightly, so if your tension differs, your yarn quantities will differ as well.

Tension and Gauge:

The stitch definition in overlay crochet is a lot clearer if your tension is slightly tighter.

The first circle of my mandala measures 8cm (up to the end of Round 7).

A 3 round solid square measures 7cm.

If you have purchased a yarn pack, you will need to match my tension and gauge or you might run short of yarn.

It is important to keep your tension even throughout the project. You might find that your mandala and blanket itself will pick up wobbles, this is normal and will sort itself out throughout the rest of the pattern. If you are concerned about your tension you can give your work a gentle blocking after completing each part.

Notes and tips:

This pattern uses US terminology
You will note that my starting chain for a dc and hdc is 2, i.e. ch2. This is just a personal preference. You are welcome to start with ch3 for a dc and ch2 for a hdc or even start with standing stitch. Do what is comfortable for you.

In certain rounds of the mandala you will be asked to start with a standing stitch and end with a needle join (seamless join). This gives your mandala a much neater finish. If you are struggling, it is fine to begin with a standard ch2 and end with a slip stitch.

It is not vital to match my tensions. If your tension differs, your yarn use and overall size will differ.

Stitch count – Stitches for the corner are given separately to stitches per side.

On rounds with multiple stitches, a total will be given. This will NOT include corner stitches.

( ) Blue parentheses – in some of the trickier rounds I will give you further instructions to help get your stitch placement right.

{ } Curly brackets indicate a complete corner.

[ ] Square brackets indicate a repeat. You will need to repeat these stitches the specified amount of times.

( ) Parentheses indicate a group of stitches that need to be worked into the same stitch or space. This also indicates a repeat.

Several rounds mention the hidden stitch. Firstly, what is this hidden stitch? When you have completed your corner, it often hides that first stitch, so always move the corner slightly to work that first stitch. This stitch is counted as the first stitch unless you are asked to “sk the 1st hidden st.” Only skip the hidden stitch where I’ve indicated to do so.

When working through the back loops (i.e. BLO) – turn your work over and you will see a ’third loop’ under the stitch you are working on. Make sure you work through this loop as well to prevent your stitches from pulling open.

Needle join or seamless join (nj)

– Work your last stitch as normal, pull up a loop and remove your hook. Thread your tail onto the needle.
– Work your tail through the loop and finish your stitch. Don’t pull your loop too tight.
– Thread your tail under both loops of the second stitch of the round.
– Thread your tail back through the top of your last stitch. Gently close the loop until it forms a false loop over the second stitch.
– Stitch your tail end away securely.

Standing Stitches:

For this pattern you will be asked to make a standing half double crochet (hdc) as well as a standing back post half double crochet (bphdc). You are welcome to use standing stitches throughout the pattern though.
– Begin with a slip knot on your hook.
– Yarn over (yo), hold the loops in place with your fingers.
– Insert your hook into the indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop. There will be 3 loops on your hook.
– Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
For the bphdc you will work this exactly the same except that you will be working from back to front around the post of the stitch instead of into the stitch.

Puff Stitches: (starting puff)

The trick with a puff stitch is to keep your loops tighter and wriggle your hook through them. This keeps your puff stitch nice and neat.
In this pattern you will need to work your puff stitch over the chain space of two rounds. I do this by simply tying my yarn over the chain spaces and beginning. This is the way I do it, if you are familiar with a different technique then please feel free to use it.
I will show you two different ways to work a puff, you are free to use either.
1. Beginning with a loop:
– Join yarn into indicated stitch or space, (I do this by tying my yarn into the indicated stitch or space) insert hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop (this counts as the first loop of your puff).
– (Yo, insert hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop) – 4 times. You should have 9 loops on your hook.
– Yo, pull through all 9 loops.
– Close your puff with a ch1.

2. Beginning with a ch2:

– Join yarn in indicated stitch or space, ch2 (this counts as the 1st loop of your puff).
– (Yo, insert hook into the same stitch and pull up a loop) – 4 times. You should have 9 loops on your hook.
– Yo, pull through 9 loops.
– Close your puff with a ch1.

Front post decrease:

This will be a decrease stitch worked around the front post of three stitches.
– Yo twice, insert hook from the front to the back around the top of the fourth dc2tog (the last dc2tog of the current set).
– Pull up a loop, 4 loops on hook, (yo, pull through 2 loops) – twice, 2 loops on hook.
– Yo, insert hook from the front to the back around the top of the puff stitch.
– Pull up a loop, 4 loops on hook.
– Yo twice, insert hook from the front to the back around the top of the first dc2tog in the next set of 4 dc2tog, pull up a loop.
– (Yo, pull through 2 loops) – twice, 5 loops on hook.
– Yo, pull through all 5 loops.

Triple treble crochet:

An extended treble crochet.
– Yo 4 times, (move your worked corner out of the way to access the indicated stitch) insert hook into indicated stitch and pull up a loop.
– (Yo, pull through 2 loops) – 5 times.
Please note that the stitch should lie on top of your work and should not include previous rounds like a spiked stitch.

BLOback loops onlyWork only through the back loops of your work. Please see notes and tips.
bphdcback post half double crochetYo, insert your hook from back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, complete hdc as normal.
bpscback post single crochetInsert your hook from back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, complete sc as normal.
chchainna
crdccrossed double crochetSkip a stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, 1dc in the skipped stitch.
dcdouble crochetna
dc2togdouble crochet 2 togetherYo, insert hook into indicated st, pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops, 2 loops on the hook. Yo, insert hook into same st, pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops, 3 loops on the hook. Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
fpdcfront post double crochetYo, insert your hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, complete a dc as normal
fp-decfront post decreaseSee tips on how to do this.
fphdcfront post half double crochetYo, insert your hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, complete a hdc as normal
fptrcfront post treble crochet Yo 2 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch. Complete trc as normal.
hdchalf double crochet na
njneedle joinSee tips on how to do this.
puffpuff stitchYo, insert hook into indicated stitch and pull up a loop. (yo, insert hook into the same st and pull up a loop) 3 times. You should have 9 loops on the hook. Yo, pull through all 9 loops. Close with a ch1.
sc single crochet na
sc3togsingle crochet 3 togetherInsert hook into first indicated stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into second indicated stitch, pull up a loop, insert into third indicated stitch, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all four loops.
sk st/stsskip a stitch/stitchesna
sl stslip stitchna
sp/spsspace/spacesna
spk-dcspiked double crochetYo, insert hook into indicated stitch. Pull up a loop to the same height as the round you are working on. Complete dc as normal.
st/stsstitch/stitchesna
standing bphdcstanding back post half double crochetBegin with a slip knot on your hook. Yo, use your fingers to hold the loops on your hook in place. Insert hook from back to front around the post of the indicated stitch. Pull up a loop, there should be 3 loops on your hook. Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
standing hdcstanding half double crochetBegin with a slip knot on your hook. Yo, use your fingers to hold the loops on your hook in place. Insert hook into indicated st or sp, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through all 3 loops.
trctreble crochetna
trc2togtreble crochet 2 togetherYo twice, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop. (Yo, pull through 2 loops) – twice. Yo twice, insert hook into the same st, pull up a loop. (Yo, pull through 2 loops) – twice, 3 loops on the hook. Yo, pull through all 3 loops.
tr-trctriple treble crochetYo four times, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through two loops) - 5 times. See tips on how to do this.
v-stv-stitchWork 1dc, ch1, 1dc into the same stitch.
yo Yarn overna

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“And above all, watch with glittering eyes the whole world around you because the greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely of places. Those who don’t believe in magic will never find it.” – Roald Dahl

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